The outhaul controls and shapes the mainsail.

boom outhaul block

Ease the outhaul to increase draft and power up the sail. Tighten the outhaul to flatten the sail and reduce drag and heel in heavy air. Typical boat length: Small Boat: 22' - 28' 6. Suitable for dinghies or small keelboats. A flexible cable shackles to the sail and enters the boom through a wire block. Placing a block aft of the cleat allows the crew to pull from a variety of positions.

A internal outhaul system is popular on small-to medium-sized offshore boats using a traveler car to carry the clew of the mainsail. Mainsails that furl into the mast are loose-footed and usually have a ball bearing outhaul car that rides the length of the boom.

The outhaul starts at the car, leads through the clew block on the sail, back to the sheave on the car, and into the boom where it leads to a winch. Outhaul Systems The outhaul controls and shapes the mainsail. Description Small Boat Part No. Midrange Part No. Big Boat Part No. A cascade of two tackles produces a advantage.

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Product Categories.We had difficulties last season with the reefing lines getting stuck when raising our main. We would have to pull the reefing lines out of the rear of the boom as we raised the main.

We suspected it was mostly due to crud collecting in the boom, there were birds nesting in there before we purchased. We found a few surprises. The following diagram showed us what to expect. Also found our boom has four pulleys but is only using three. I guess it could support a Reef 3. First step was to figure out how to get the rivets out of the boom. We also decided only to remove one end of the boom. We removed the non-gooseneck side rear since we really needed to retrieve the outhaul cable so we can replace the lines.

We were given the advice to not try and drill from the inside out. Using a metal drill bit, Lori took on the brave job of drilling off the rivet head. We were nervous. This method worked really well. The moment the head of the rivet started to spin off we knew we were deep enough.

After the head was off and the rivet was ground flush with the boom we were able to take a nail head and push the rivet through. Sounds pretty easy, if you do it right.

See lessons learned below. We documented and then undid all of the lines to pull the end cap right off. This entire assembly, axel and sheaves, is only friction fit in the fitting, and held in place by the tension on the outhaul and reefing lines.

If you loosen the tension on these lines, then get a screw driver, or anything like thatyou can pry the whole assembly out. If it is stuck, try a little silicone spay and some light taps with a hammer.

Flatten Your Mainsail Foot with an Outhaul

You can also remove the sheaves in the same manner at the gooseneck end as well. Inside the mast, we found a few surprises.

First of all we could see the mess left behind by the birds. Not really a huge surprise.Rig-Rite, Inc. Phone: -- FAX: www. To order, specify length.

Sections can also be milled for the sail entrance or other components if necessary, painted finishes and other lengths are available on special order, Please specify. If you require a complete Boom Assembly, you can select from components below and contact us with specifications.

For more generic parts, see categories listed under Spar Parts. There are many parts for specific configurations that are not listed here. If you require Rig-Rite 6 Boom Components not listed here please contact us with details. This item was commonly used to attach the RR 6 Boom using the RR C Toggle to a variety of different Mast Brackets and is therefore also available on a semi-custom basis with other bolt lengths, please specify. As used on a variety of Bristol's, Pearson's, and Sabre's.

As used on Pearson, Bristol, Sabre and others. Black epoxy coated end fitting will fit a variety of Toggles, but is commonly used with the RR C cast Gooseneck Toggle, below. Pad insulates winch from spar wall and properly seats it for mounting.

Frequently used for a Reefing Winch. For use with RR 6 boom.

boom outhaul block

Especially suitable for use with Boom Vang on RR 6 boom. As RR 6B-2Babove, but includes 1 or 2 swiveling tang s for mainsheet and topping lift attachment. As RR 6B-2Babove, but includes long swiveling tang for simultaneous mainsheet and topping lift attachment. Machined for attachment of topping lift shackle and Triple sheave block.

Rig-Rite 6 Boom Section.The halyard hoists it up the mast and the main sheet adjusts the angle of the sail to the hull. There are three potential control lines for your mainsail to adjust its shape. Each controls the tension on one of the three sides of the mainsail.

In this post, I describe a trimmable outhaul to control the foot tension. Most first generation Cs and similar sailboats came from the factory with a simple loop of line between the mainsail clew and an eye strap at the end of the boom similar to the picture below.

Outhaul Systems

By then, the knot could be hard to loosen. The solution is to replace that inept loop of line with a four part four line segmentstrimmable outhaul that con sists of:. The pictures in this post show a five part five line segments outhaul only because those were the blocks that I had on hand when I rigged the outhaul.

Notice in the picture below that I spliced an eye in the end of the line where it attaches to the becket. You could also use a bowline knot there but I prefer the neatness of spliced eyes, particularly here at the end of the boom where four lines are attached main sheet not shown. The challenge in this setup is to get the overall length of the outhaul as short as possible. If the combination of blocks and other hardware is too long when you tighten the outhaul, the blocks will meet in the middle before putting enough tension on the foot of the mainsail.

Outhaul Configurations

To solve the challenge, use the shortest shackles you can find. You might also need to shorten the becket on the one double block.

Blue zones debunked

Another option is to attach the working end of the line around one of the sheaves of the block itself, but that will result in less mechanical advantage. To make the outhaul as easy to attach as possible, add a snap shackle to the working end of the outhaul for hooking to the mainsail clew.

The fairlead keeps the line captured at the boom if it gets out of hand. A foot of slack on the end makes the setup easy to trim while under sail and to loosen when removing the sail to head home. To see how all four systems including the main sheet fit on the boom, see the pictures below. If the outhaul shown above seems too complicated or expensive for you, a simpler version is even easier to set up. Install the block on the boom eye strap, the fairlead cleat on the side of the boom, and reave the line as shown in the picture below.

In this system, the line runs through the clew grommet itself. For the complete collection of rigging projects like this one, purchase my ebook Do-It-Yourself Small Sailboat Rigging. Enter your email address below to subscribe to this blog and receive notifications of new posts by email. Planning to do the topping lift and outhaul as soon as I repair the forestay reinforcement. Can you recommend a less-expensive source for hardware? Thanks, Dave. If that had not been the case, I would have used something like the Harken micro blocks and at around half the cost.

Those are also the size that Catalina Direct uses in their kit. Another benefit would be that their combined length is even a little shorter, which might make the difference with a long-footed mainsail. When I need to buy parts at retail instead of eBay, I like defender.

Archimedes principle application

I figured you had to have done something like that. Will have to wait till the next time I drop the mast to install it. I think the necessary hardware is already on the boom.Basic internal outhaul system.

Lower RF and V-cleat are positioned along the boom, as required for crew access. RF features an integral fairlead which retains sheet when uncleated. Variations: Run line through clew eye and fix at boom end to increase purchase to Tail is led out of boom to RF5 swiveling cleat for ease of operation from either side of the boat. Suitable for performance dinghies through to sports boats.

Features a webbing strop through the clew eye, lead to internal block purchase system, exiting the underside of the boom and secured via a cam cleat. Suitable for trailerable yachts, sports boats and keel boats to 8m 26ft.

Outhaul Systems. Conventional rig sizes, sail plans and displacments are assumed, and suitability for actual application should be checked with the appropriate yacht designer, naval architect or rigger as required. Please be aware that delivery times may be slightly longer than normal for the next few weeks as we are having to operate our warehouse and factory with significantly reduced staff levels.

Tracks and Tiller extensions will be shipped with nominal freight charges, we will contact you with a freight quote before finalizing your order. Subscribe to newsletter. Shipping phone number For speedier delivery, please provide your phone number just in case we need to contact you about your order.Download it here.

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boom outhaul block

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I have a problem re-rigging my outhaul on my The line parted when I tried running new line through the system. Anybody out there tell me how to access the internal block for the outhaul? It's an Isomat spar. Outhaul If it's like mine you will have ti seperate the goose neck at the Boom "drill out pop rivets". Than if you look along the boom mid point you should find a pop rivet the is holding the dead end of the block. At that point the block assemble should slide out the open end of the boom.

When you reassemble the boom get Stainess Steel pop rivets. Robert Dean. My Boom I am in love with my Isomat boom. Must be. Have taken it home now 4 times to meet the family and to take it apart on the kitchen counter. My 15 foot Isomat boom is from my Hunter 35 Legend. I was not aware that Hunter made a One of the most frequent questions that Southeast Sailboats is asked is what is the best outhaul configuration and the pros and cons of each?

The outhaul system comprises a system to enable accurate and easy adjustment of the clew of the sail. The configuration of the secondary line system uses a floating block on the end of the primary line placed either in the middle of the boom or at the front of the boom by the gooseneck. There are two variations of the middle of the boom configuration — top of boom and side of boom. Both Jon Emmett and Matilda Nicholls use the middle top of boom configuration.

Jon Emmett writes. By having the block central, the length of line is consistent and the blocks are further away from the sailor. Although I primarily do racing on the standard inner and outer loop course used at many Laser events.

For club racing we may well have a one-sided course, or windward mark rounded to starboard etc which will affect my choice of which side to place the downhaul and therefore outhaul. For calibration purposes it is always easy to see the block above the boom which is of course a similar position to the sailor, whereas trying to judge exactly where the clew is can be hard. The length of elastic along the boom also works well with the block being centralised.

There are both pros and cons to this setup. Personally, I find it very important to know and be able to see my outhaul calibrations. I use the black outhaul block and measure it against different positions of tape on boom to know exactly where my outhaul depth is.

Internal outhaul block in Isomat Boom

These calibrations allow easy baseline set ups for when I first get on the water. It also allows me to test out different outhaul depths and make sure I know exactly where my outhaul was when a certain depth has worked or not worked for me in various conditions. Having the block sitting on-top of the boom allows me to easily see the block in relation to my tape on both port and starboard tacks.

I also find this system allows the outhaul on the Radial to run effectively in all conditions. The double puller bungee has always remained tight enough for me that the outhaul releases even in very light conditions. The alternative system that runs along the side of the boom is just as smooth and is a very neat and tight alternative to have your outhaul system.

However, you will have to choose which side is more important for seeing your calibrations. I think that both systems are effective and run smoothly and that it is down to personal preference as to how you decide on your sail set-up and use your calibrations to do so. The calibration of the sail is nicely visible on one tack — but pretty useless on the other tack. For this reason I have my outhaul running on the starboard side and downhaul on port, so the calibration is visible on starboard.

This configuration enables the bungee inhaul to be looped under the boom keeping it clear of the foot of the sail. This bungee configuration is essentially a figure-of-8 around the boom. The alternative system is to have two blocks fastened near the gooseneck to create the system there. This is slightly easier to setup than the mid-boom block option, simply requiring a much longer primary line. There is however an increased chance of the line fouling the foot of the sail near the clew, particularly as more vang is used — the boom will bend more but the outhaul line will run straight regardless.

The benefit of the system is probably a calibration system that is visible on both tacks. My best suggestion is to consider your system with these three questions, then consider the best change you could make from there. Does the sail get fouled by the system in any wind strength?

Are you able to use your calibration when you need it?

Une gâche translation

Does your system quickly release in light winds? The front of boom outhaul configuration is used by a number of top sailors. Orlando writes.